Fun And Other Things To Do With The VIMs

Some elementary projects for the VIM. Most will work for VIM1 and VIM2, but always confirm connections and pin assignments with the appropriate schematic before making connections.

First project, Anti-Skid/Anti-Scratch feet for the VIM.
The VIM can be a little slippery of foot. The four threaded feet are great for holding the case together, but not for keeping the box in place on hard surfaces.
I used R/C model fuel line(silicone). Most types of silicone or rubber tubing would also work, A 24-25mm piece is all that is needed.
1.) Get fuel line or other appropriate tubing.
2.) From a 24-25mm piece, cut four even sections.
3.) Push tubing sections on to the four threaded feet.

Second Project, easier access to the power button.
The VIM is a small device. Getting at the power button can be a challenge.
1.) Disassemble the Vim’s case to isolate the top section
2.) Insert sanding drum in to Dremel or similar handheld rotary tool. Use a low speed, you want to sand, not melt.
3.) Mark off the section to be relieved, or if you are feeling risky, just eyeball it as I did.
4.) Remove material until your mark is met or you eyeball is satisfied.
5.) Reassemble the VIM’s case and test.

Third project, more USB Ports.

The VIM offers two USB ports on the rear, and an OTG USB-C port, but that port is usually supplying power to the VIM, so we have two.
Fortunately, the GPIO offers two additional USB Ports(each with a 500mA maximum). An old PC case offered a remote USB port extension, complete with conveniently labeled board connectors.
1.) Observe the GPIO pinout below.
2,) Locate an old PC case with a remote USB extension. Remove the extension.
3.) Connect board connectors to the GPIO’s relevant pins(see step 1).

Fourth project, Giving the VIM sight.
I have several webcam modules pulled from non-functioning Laptops and Chromebooks.

1.) Locate and recover an unused Laptop’s webcam. The type we are looking for uses a common USB interface. These can be found on sites like Ebay for about $3(USD) and up. Many of these are VGA cameras. Good enough for a stealthy IP camera or room monitor.
2.) Cut a section of perfboard to use as the cameras backing.
3.) Observe the GPIO USB Pinout from the VIMUstension project above.
4.) Using a 4 pin connector, you can recover one from the same case you recovered the USB ports for the VIMUstension project above
5.) Identify the appropriate USB pin locations from the GPIO. Identify the laptop camera module’s USB connections. Make the connections.
Please see this Instructables page for connection solutions and how-to.
Caution: Most of these cameras are powered by 3.3 volts, the 5 volts on the GPIO’s USB Header may damage a 3.3v camera. I followed the Instructable(linked above) and put two diodes(1N1004 or similar) in series between the GPIO’s 5v pin and the camera’s USB power pin. A DC-to-DC converter could also be used.
3.3 volts is available on the GPIO. I did not use the 3.3 volt pin, because I wanted to keep the connector together.
Note: the Vim’s power LED can be turned off in settings, making for a fairly stealthy wireless IP camera(nanny cam).

Youtube video demonstrating function.

Fifth project, disassembling the VIM.
The case is bound by four-metal M2 screws(TA, tamper-resistant) mated to four M2 threaded metal “feet”. I did not have this bit in my collection. I found I could just hold pressure against the screw’s head with my thumb and remove the feet with pliers. You will want to provide something to protect the feet/case from the pliers, I used an old rag.


It looks quite interesting, but i can’t view the images, using google chrome for Windows, Linux and Android, it doesn’t matter, nothing loads images, i am especially interested in usb part.

Not sure why the pictures are not showing, I will look in to it.

No, i have seen it on freaktab, can’t view it from anywhere, did a google search, didn’t help, only option is to maybe try through firefox or some other browser.

Just tried on Firefox, same thing, i said earlier that i was viewing in Chrome for Linux, i meant Chromium for Linux.

I regret that that they are not showing. Not sure why, I see them on my PC(Firefox, Opera) and my phone(Android).
Were you logged in when you looked at Freaktab?

In any event, I will zip the photos up in a zip file and post them somewhere. Will be tonight before I can do it.

I can see them now, no need to upload, i didn’t even think about logging in, i thought i was logged in on freaktab, i totally forgot that you can’t view images if you aren’t logged in.

I thought i was logged in, but didn’t even look, i was only logged in on tapatalk.

Silly, i know, but i was suffering from a hard hangover yesterday when i was viewing freaktab topic, so i have an excuse. :slight_smile:

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Computers and Hangovers we can all relate to this happening sometime :slight_smile:

No worries. Been there, done that. :slight_smile:

I have re-uploaded the pictures to an image hosting site. Everybody should see them now.

@Tommy21 Since not everyone will have a FT account and could not view the images, thanks for pointing out that they could not be seen here. :slight_smile:

To contribute 3rd project - USB-A adaptor, just replace pins with a SIL socket and you get an extra port (RF receiver for example). Or you can even construct a micro/miniUSB if needed. But in that case ID pin should be tied to GND to prevent shortening with +5V or ADC_CH0 on mainboard.

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Thanks for adding to the collection. Those are bargain-priced , might have to pick up a few.

It’s GREAT JOB that geeks will interest!

Welcome back Gouwa. Hope you enjoyed the Spring Festival and that the year of the Rooster is a good one for you.



I’m a dragon guy :slight_smile:

Not so much a DIY(Do-It-Yourself), more of an FYI(Find-It-Yourself). :slight_smile:

I found a power jack(Tip+) pigtail(harness) from a dead Acer C710(Chrome). The 4 pin connector’s shell was not an exact mate, but the pins line up, it fits(nothing forced) and works well.
Of course, I don’t use the Acer’s power supply, as it is 19vdc.
Note: The connectors not being an exact match, means there is no orientation key, so attention to polarity must be observed at the time of connection to the Vim.

Easier uSD card slot access…

As discussed here, this project uses one of the uSD card slot extenders to move the card slot to the Vim’s front. I am using the type of card extender that comes with a headshell. The cable I purchased was very long(45-48cm), for now, i just folded the slack and gathered with a rubber band. I intend to shorten the cable when my backup arrives.

1.) If equipped, file off the little uSD card orientation rise with a file…

2.) Using 3M double-sided celo tape, or other sticky substance, stick the headshell to the Vim’s case bottom. Mechanical means could also be used to attach headshell to case bottom.
I positioned the headshell so the headshells’s finger relief was just past the Vim’s face…

3.) Referring to the Vim project VimFeet in the original post, use enough tubing to raise the Vim to allow clearance for the headshell.


For VIM and VIM2…
Card Slot Mod II.
I shortened the cable and mounted the card slot to the Vim’s bottom case section. Simply added spacers between bottom case sections for clearance. If Khadas makes case sections available, I intend to do a better job on the cosmetics. But otherwise works great.


The only modification I have physically done so far…

As if I am going to pull the damn thing apart every time I want to access those M contacts!


This project is for adding SPDIF optical or Coaxial output to the VIM and VIM2. This project for the VIM is also elsewhere in this forum, but I wanted to add it to this thread.

I used a PC Audio Extension Bracket for my tests. Did not make any changes to it. Had to identify the pin assignments, pretty easy to do on this bracket.
As a caution, I would not use the 5volt(VCC) if Optical will not be used. Also, use one or the other(COAX or Optical), using both simultaneously could potentially overload GPIO Pin 13(signal(Vin)). Just speculation, but until otherwise known, why risk it.

Using a schematic Gouwa posted, I assumed most SPDIF Optical ports would have a similar pin assignment. In this instance, the signal(Vin) pins for both COAX and Optical ports share a pin on the bracket, same for ground(GND) pin. For optical, the 5 volt(Vcc) is added.

NOTE: Brackets may vary, so users will need to use a multimeter to check for their specific bracket pin assignments.

On the VIM, SPDIF worked on the later official firmwares and on ROMs by Freaktab’s @superceleron.
For VIM2, SPDIF is working on @superceleron latest VIM2 ROMs. I have not tried it on Khadas official firmware yet, so cannot confirm now.

Same GPIO pin assignments for SPDIF on VIM and VIM2,
Pin 1 for 5vdc,
Pin 13 for SPDIF signal,
Pin 14 for Ground.
NOTE: Ground and 5vdc can be found elsewhere on the GPIO, but the above, are the pins I used.


Internal Fan Mount on VIM2.

I mounted the fan inside, directly over the CPU. I had to borrow a case section from the VIM 1 to add some clearance. I plan on adding a few gaskets and some shrouding to get the air to travel over critical components. Last phase will add mass to the CPU, probably aluminum or copper plate.

The goal was to have the one of the fan’s intakes, pull air off the CPU, while the remaining intake further evacuates the case air. The fan’s exhaust is blown out the rear, gaskets prevent the exhausted air from reentering the case. This arrangement is not ideal as it restricts the exhaust a small amount. It is working pretty good, but I anticipate some improvement from adding mass to the cpu.

Keep in mind this is a work in progress, some pics below, but with a Post-it note shroud, a pieced together gasket and yet-to-shorten screws, it isn’t much to look at. :slight_smile: