@birty you gave a better explanation, you might want to point that message to the guy who is having the problems
I dont think i can desolder that part, i have a good soldering station but i dont think my tip is good enough to get in that tight spot
I didnt know at first it was even a 4 point part, it just looked like a 2 point till i took the picture with my phone and zoomed in then i seen it had 4 pads
Before i try it, what value is it?
If i test it with a meter it should check in ohms like a resistor should it? or continuity?
Its got 2 pins on the top and 2 on the bottom, top left and bottom left should be one side of the coil or both top and both bottom?
Check if it is shorted or something first to make sure,
if not measure resistivity and note it down for future help,
But if you are going to this extent to repair, just give it to khadas mate, they can handle the situation, don’t want to screw up and make the board go to waste
I believe you have shorted the connections,
but alas the top ferrite cover has popped off, you might wat to put some Kapton over it for good measure
What fun is a DIY SBC if i send it in for them to DIY?
put some kapton on top to prevent damage or shorts,
Hehe, I believe you are only supposed to tinker with the DIY case, not the Entire DIY case and board setup
Ahh! that black solder mask looks gorgeous in close up and from far away, Damn, I wish more companies made PCBs like that, I want to see if I can get the SBC in OSHpark purple
Definitely the Coil, you can see the individual copper wire stands, but they don’t seem to be damaged, or “fused” by heat to say…
Nice macro camera skills BTW…
yes, it looks like an open component, but it’s okay as if
no, definitely after soldering, the component leads are exposed, It is very unsafe if a single thread touches it
small wire = high resistance,
High resistance + High current = High heat = bad news,
simple engineering knowledge
or it could be the heat of the soldering Iron, I have no idea then…
can you confirm that the circuit itself is not damaged?
Thank you birty for clearing that up for me, makes perfect sense.
I believe you are are interpreting that accurately.
A person with 90+ employeed VIMs is going to have some good insight in to the things.
I have a meter but i dont know what points to check, like i said if i remove L7 i think the board is damaged. I seriously think those 2 little points i circled are an open trace on the board.
Im not sure if L7 is bad or if the traces to L7 have opened
I understand correctly, are you now waiting for another power supply?
yes, i should get it any minute
Right now im powering it from a meanwell RS-15-5 threw the pogo pads
Ive already used a USB-USB-C cable and hooked it to my laptop and the VIM2 powered up so i think the 10W supply will work from the USB-C to power it