Hi
I use a linear power to supply for tone1,and I test the sound is OK.
The connection is shown below.
Hi
I use a linear power to supply for tone1,and I test the sound is OK.
Hi Eric,
Regarding the VIM version not showing on DFU, any Idea?
Hi
The showing on DFU about Generic version and VIM version are the same.
I guess your cable is special, it has IC inside. Can you try to use normal USB cable to connect?
Hi Eric, I’m back.
The two Cable Devices in the picture are virtual devices from VB Audio Software company, VB-Audio Virtual Apps (Vincent Burel), it isn’t related to the issue.
My cable is very normal, no IC on it.
But you are right, I’ve tried another PSU and the sound is ok.
Maybe the 15w Bingzi transformer isn’t powerful enough to handle with Tone board.
Regarding the two versions, The VIM is shown as Khadas Board Control, and the Generic as Tone 1, the VIM version got no data from DFU tool. Are the firmwares different?
Hi
So you have a generic tone1 and a VIM version tone1. Maybe the firmware of VIM version tone1 is old, because the VIM version tone1 we did not have shipments recently. You can install the primary thesycon driver to have a try? And check the device from the XMOS USB DAC Driver Control Panel.
Hi
Yes, that is right. You can update the firmware of VIM version tone1 to V2.00 by TUSBAudioDFU tool(double click TUSBAudioDfu.exe from installation document), and then khadas audio dashboard can also recognize the VIM version tone1.
Thanks Eric, the upgrade worked! Now I can see Tone 1 in the Dashboard.
Regarding distorted audio only with this specific PSU would be a strength issue?
I tried other 2 PSUs and the audio is perfect. But those are switching psu, not Linear.@/
Hi Eric, any idea about it?
Hi
You mean switching PSU is OK, linear PSU may lead to distorded audio,right?
There are not any differences between them for tone1 as long as they can supply for 5V and >500mA. About your linear PSU you should check the voltage and maximum current.
Hi Eric,
I’m back to this thread because I really need a help.
I have 6 Tone 1 Boards and ALL are working perfectly, so Thank you! The problem was in my linear psu. Ok, it’s working both with two way split USB Cable and also via GPIO.
My problem is with Tone 2 maker.
I have 3 Tone 2 boards, can’t make It work either two way USB Split Cable (same used in Tone 1) or via GPIO.
The only method working is a three way Split Cable: (1) USB board port type C (DM+DP+GND) + (2) I2S Board port type C (VCC+GND from linear PSU) + (3) USB PC Port type A (DM+DP+GND). ALL GND connected.
One board was working perfectly (during about one month) until today, it’s Just stopped. I’ve unplugged the I2S Cable, and tested with a normal USB Cable in the USB Port only (VCC+GND+DM+DP) sometimes It shows only a red led, sometimes it show red led+3 Green leds…and no device detected.
Is it dead??
Hi
We have not encounter this situation, could you sent it to us to check its hardware?
Hi Eric,
Sure, I can send.
I must say that the board is very very hot, not usual like the others.
So, can I keep this connections for the other Tone 2’s or better to use two separated cables?
I mean, need to put GND to together in both cables or just plug independent cables?
Like:
Cable 1: USB from Tone to PC (VCC,GND,DM,DP) - a normal USB Cable
Cable 2: I2S from Tone to PSU (VCC, GND) - a modified USB Cable
Could you please provide details on where you made your purchase and the corresponding order number?
Ordered from AliExpress on May 6, 2024.
Order number: 8188104046358144
3x Tone 2 Maker boards.
Regarding my question, which method should I use?
Hi
I should need your tone2 to have a look.
I mean, the other 2 boards, I need to know If I’m doing something wrong.
Are the other 2 boards OK?
They’re perfect, but this one was too, and I’m afraid the same thing will happen to the other two, so I ask again, is the way I’m making the connections correct?
Anyway, give me an address to send It to you, I’m in Brazil It would take a while but, no problem.
Out of curiosity, I just plugged the card into the PC, the device is back, but not for too long! it was active for 40 seconds and then disappeared. It got extremely hot, making it difficult to even hold the board.
5 green LEDs lit up.
After about 40 secs:
PS: I have some electronics/soldering skills, anything I could check here with multimeter before send It?