BTW I am confused about which project you are referring to, I have so many at hand that I am getting confused (￣﹃￣)
Do you plan to use the board without a DIY case?
Im going to leave top off and use 40X40 noctua fan with I/O pins
Cool ! (pun intended), but we haven’t gotten extreme yet…
extreme is cant put lid on 
I Don’t have a CNC mill, nor do I have contact with a person who can do it,
I am the guy with Ideas but an empty wallet, that is why I created the Cardboard case 
If I had enough funding for my work, I would be doing projects 24/7 365
Create.
Eat.
sleep.
Repeat…
Not putting the Lid on so that it gets exposed to humidity, dust and potential ESD hazard
man, come to think of it, that is extreme !!! 
I thought about case like this, and it only costs $3. for 10cm X 20CM any color
I buy cheap china android tv box and remove the board then make plastic plates and call cheap SBC lol
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Where did you get that plastic?, is it acrylic, the one you get at the crafts store ?
I buy it from the e-bay any color i search “Acrylic Sheets Plexiglass”
Very easy use utility knife and score where i want to cut then snap it and its easy to make correct size. Then use dremel to round corners. Or just use sand paper
The round blue one (T-95Q) i had to cut circle wirh dremel, very messy
This type of case works well for air flow, i just glue heatsink to chip with heatsink epoxy because i dont plan t take apart many times so i just glued em on
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It looks beautiful, I want to build a case for my VIM3 and TS050 screen…
I had MDF as the first choice, but since it is going to sit in the middle of my sweaty palms, I needed something more durable, I chose acrylic as my second choice, but I am still deciding, here a single clear or black opaque 12x12 inch sheet is 150₹ (about 2$)
What thickness are you going to use? mine is about 1/4" seems to be the best IMO i got a little pack of plastic stand offs and they are long enough to hold the board between the sheets, the orange one u2c (S912) just has the fan sitting ontop of the sink stuck with double sided tape and the top layer of plastic is like a friction fit with the hole at the top lets the air in, holds the fan down and gives something to tape the wifi antennas to. This board has USB ports that power off when the board powers off so the 5V USB fan works perfect
The standoff kit i got off Amazon has different size standoffs, screws and nuts all plastic and i got lucky they all fit threw the board holes and the assortment kit i got had all the right sizes.
I had to drill out the board holes on the CSA96 board (RK3399) but thats the only one so far i had to modify
Amazon description: HVAZI 320pcs M2.5 Nylon Hex Spacer Standoffs Screws Nuts Assortment Kit; Male-Female(Black) $13. for this kit
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Just remember that the CPU is not the tallest component on the PCBA. You may have to relieve some sections of the HS to clear the taller components, in order for the HS to fit flush on the CPU.
Be very careful doing this, multilayer PCBs can have traces that can’t be seen.
That was on the CSA96, for some reason that board is larger then it needs to be IMO and i didnt drill them out much
For the sink i bought 15mm X 15mm some one around here sugested the size and i got a pack off amazon and goes from 0.3mm to 2.0mm 8 different sizes 5 of each thickness
Rather then use the flat gummy bear
Yes, I have seen similar examples, a lot of unpopulated PCB area. The SBCs’ PCBs are typically much more densly populated.
Gummy bears are convenient, tasty too, but like you and others, I think a thin film of heatsink compound between CPU and HS will yield the best thermal conduction. However. I have been wrong before. 
I look forward to your results.
One other thing i notice with the Khadas case, but im no engineer so this may not be right.
Example: when you open a window no air will come in till you open another window, to sort of create a “draw” say a front window and a back window now you have a “flow”
The Khadas case is cool but it doesnt (imo) have a well designed “flow” the intake to the fan looks restricted and the vents at the top look to be in the wrong place, secondly then exit doesnt even seem to be exsistant. The air flow doesnt seem to be any at all.
When the top cover is on and the fan is on high the fan is SUPER loud. Remove the top cover and the sound of the fan noise drops drasticly because i think the “flow” improves
just my opinion though again im no engineer so i dont know whats happening
I feel some airflow from the opening
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Yes that is one reason, stress on the fan causes it to make sounds, but also due to reverberation, the sound is trapped and start bouncing around and creates a ruckus…
Is ruckus the same as turbulence?
No, turbulence is due to the crossflow of air or the obstruction of flow
here the ruckus is more like mini shockwaves bouncing around…